So how do we know how big the air cells should be? There are many egg pictorials or air cell charts out there. This can suffocate them if they have not pipped, if they manage to pip they will be stuck and not be able to move to finish the job. On the flip side of that if your air cells grow too big the membrane can “shrink wrap” your chick. If that air cell is not big enough and there is too much moisture there he/she can drown. This is very important because when your little chick decides it's time to hatch, he/she is going to pip into the area where the air cell should be. As the moisture leaves, the air cell in the egg grows. Moisture leaves the eggs through the pores of the shell. This weight that it is loosing is actually moisture. An egg needs to loose 13/14% of it's weight during incubation. So how do you make the confusing understandable? In my opinion the first step is to understand why we control the humidity. Some very seasoned hatchers don't even bother with monitoring humidity because they've done it so much they just know what works for them. They have just found what works for them. Getting a definite answer is impossible and the issue of humidity can be very confusing. The quality of eggs also can play a role. The habits of the hatcher, the area that they are in and whether they have a dry or humid atmosphere. Why is this? Because different things work for different people because of various factors that these books and manuals do not take into consideration. The only thing that is widely agreed upon is that at lockdown and hatch it needs to be higher. These manuals either throw out a number, (that in my opinion is usually too high) or tell you how much water to put in the wells (regardless of how much humidity that causes.)Īsk what your humidity should be on a forum and you will undoubtedly get at least a dozen different opinions. I read in a book it should be between this number and that number. How many people know why you regulate humidity as a newbie? I know I didn't. The biggest thing with these manuals that bother me though is the humidity recommendations. It doesn't mean the hatch will be “late”, but it certainly can contribute to it. ![]() A newbie follows this instruction and ends up with a late hatch. Ask any veteran hatcher and they will tell you that still air incubators run better hatches at 101-102F measured near the top of the egg. ![]() Many of the still air incubator manuals still state that the incubator should maintain 99.5F. I'm sure there's some pertinent info in there about your specific incubator, but as a guideline for new hatchers they are awful!!!!! These manuals are very generic and often not accurate where hatching is concerned. The Little Giant 11300 Incubator allows you to fine-tune these parameters, ensuring optimal results.Ok, not really. This feature eliminates the need for manual turning, saving you time and effort.Īdjustable Humidity and Temperature ControlsĪchieve precise control over humidity and temperature settings to provide the ideal conditions for successful egg incubation. The incubator’s automatic turner ensures that eggs are rotated regularly, mimicking the natural behavior of a brooding hen. The Features of the Little Giant 11300 Incubator: Automatic Turner The Little Giant 11300 Incubator enables year-round hatching, giving you the flexibility to plan your breeding cycles and meet market demands. With adjustable humidity and temperature controls, you can create the perfect environment for different types of eggs, ensuring optimal hatch rates and healthy chicks.įorget about seasonal limitations. Take full control of the incubation process. Its spacious design accommodates multiple eggs, maximizing your efficiency and productivity. The Little Giant 11300 Incubator allows you to hatch a larger number of eggs simultaneously. Also Check out our Nurture Right 360 Incubator Hatch More Eggs at Once
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